How To Class Your Car
It's really pretty easy.
The DVEN Rally4Vets Top Dog Championships are all about fun and helping the disabled veteran community. It seems there is an infinite number of ways to modify a car and many of our drivers will be bringing their stock daily drivers. With that in mind, we have adopted the car classing model developed and used by Jon Felton in his successful track cross programs.
Read on to find instructions on how to class your vehicle for the event!

Top Dog Championship Classing Overview
If you have participated in one of Jon Felton's TrackCross events you are familiar with the classing structure below. If you are accustomed to SCCA time trial classes, you will find this structure simpler.
We class cars so drivers compete against those in similar cars and of a similar skill level.
We use the honor system, so it is each competitor’s responsibility to class themselves and their cars correctly.
We also put drivers in Novice and Experienced classes to level the playing field. If you don't clearly meet the Novice requirements, register as experienced.
How Should I Class My Car?
Before diving into the full class list, please review the following modifications—if any of these apply to your car, you likely fall into Competition Class, possibly at a higher tier:
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Engine swap
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Turbocharger or supercharger (added or upgraded)
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Larger-than-stock turbo
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R-compound or slick tires (treadwear below 140)
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Significant aero modifications (wings/splitters)
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Gutted or stripped interior
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Major weight reduction
Driver Classes
Experienced and Novice
Novice (NOV)
Novice drivers compete only against other NOV* participants within their car class for points and medals. Choose this if you are a beginner or new to track cross.
[*defined as having participated in fewer than 5 autocross, track cross, HPDE, or similar events in the past 2 years, regardless of your car type.]
When registering on MotorsportReg.com, select “Novice” first, then choose your car class.
Car Classes
Street Car Classes
For street-legal production vehicles with stock or limited bolt-on mods (e.g. intake, exhaust, springs/shocks), DOT 140+ treadwear tires, full interiors, and little/no weight reduction.
FWD (Front-Wheel Drive):
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SF1 – Under 2.5L NA
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SF2 – Over 2.5L NA or Forced Induction < 400hp
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SF3 – ≥ 400hp or Forced Induction
RWD (Rear-Wheel Drive):
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SR1 – Under 2.5L NA
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SR2 – Over 2.5L NA or Forced Induction < 400hp
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SR3 – ≥ 400hp or Forced Induction
AWD (All-Wheel Drive):
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SA1 – Under 2.5L NA
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SA2 – Over 2.5L NA or Forced Induction < 400hp
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SA3 – ≥ 400hp or Forced Induction
Notes: NA = Naturally Aspirated. Forced Induction = Supercharger or Turbocharger.
Horsepower ratings are at the crank, from manufacturer specifications, and/or via the best calculation on a dynamometer.
Competition Car Classes
For race-prepped or heavily modified cars, street legal or not. This includes engine swaps, added forced induction, R-compound or slick tires (<140 treadwear), gutted interiors, and significant weight reduction.
FWD:
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CF1 – Under 2.5L NA
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CF2 – Over 2.5L NA or Forced Induction < 400hp
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CF3 – ≥ 400hp or Forced Induction
RWD:
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CR1 – Under 2.5L NA
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CR2 – Over 2.5L NA or Forced Induction < 400hp
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CR3 – ≥ 400hp or Forced Induction
AWD:
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CA1 – Under 2.5L NA
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CA2 – Over 2.5L NA or Forced Induction < 400hp
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CA3 – ≥ 400hp or Forced Induction
Notes: NA = Naturally Aspirated. Forced Induction = Supercharger or Turbocharger.
Horsepower ratings are at the crank, from manufacturer specifications, and/or via the best calculation on a dynamometer.
Still Have Questions?
Email us at TOPDOG@RALLY4VETS.COM—we’ll help you get classed and ready to roll.
